f ae island and to a lesser extent, Moresby Island were bitter reminders of the tension between loggers anc residents of these lands. Minor engine trouble gave us a rare opportunity to limp into Sewell Inlet, the logging camp for Western Forest Products. Buzz,the camp manager, made us very welcome,a truck at our disposal, tools, equipment, food, hot showers, and guided tours around the lunar landscape that was once trees. This was home to some 500 people, now five maintain the place, huge generators going twenty four hours a day amounts to $2000 of diesel per week, a Helicopter on charter to pop up to Sandspit for a drink, trucks, new one day, dumped as replacements, come in monthly, and the huge bodyless stumps of hundreds of years growth dot the landscape. We moved on to immerse ourselves in the beauty as yet unravaged by man, through channels only deep enough for the keel at the high of high tide, the depth sounder screaming at me that’s it’s impassable and the deer stare at us, probably laughing to themselves. We walked in forests with moss so thick and green we rolled in it as kids on sand dunes. The sun spotlight- ing us in heavy mists, navigating when the person on the tiller can’t see the person on the bowsprit. Por- poises. playing with the keel, and whales unconcern- edly passing . Puffins, like wind up toy birds, squawk, flap by. Though we passed through other villages once inhabited by the Haida,the village of Ninstints on Skungwai was the one most magical, the poles stand- ing to proud attention, looking out over the small bay, and what stories they can’t tell are told by Wanagan, the caretaker of the island. We spent a lot of time in his spellbinding company, walking through the forests listening to trees growing, bashing out through the swells in his runabout to see Sea Lions, or eating fresh delicacies like sea urchins,venison, or salmon. Storm bound in Rose Harbour we ate, drank(plum stone vodka?) in the cosy cottage of Goetz, a german, in his new found paradise, ferrying tourists around in his Zodiac, cooking meals from his bountiful garden, and offering accomodation to those that have none. We waited out the storm for three days and on the third night called up Wanagan on the VHF for a weather report. He suggested we left soon, as after the storm passed Hecate Straight would be a mess with no wind. Considering the conditions outside our cosy boat we thought we would be suicidal to leave at that moment, but we decided that a Haida would know better, and off we went to once again hit Hecate. On a15 to 20 knot southeasterly we plowed steadily through the crashing sea all through the night, only loosing the wind two or three miles from the mainland coast. On the return trip to Vancouver a number of minor incidents struck just to keep us on our toes, like the backstay(that holds the mast up) snapped, not once, but three times in heavy winds. At Hornby Island we drifted out from a bay dragging the anchor behind us and somehow avoided hitting all the big power boats that we had anchored in lee of, the night before. But by this time in our journey we were in tune enough to handle these things as all part of a days work. If you are interested in travelling to Haida Gwai(Charlottes) and would like information on preparation, or alternate ways to visit | would be happy to chat about that spectacular part of the world. Rumour is that they will be a hot number in a few years for tourists. Maybe Queen Charlotte City will live up to it's name. Sewell Inlet, now a logging camp, is thinking of opening up to fishing tours for Japanese . Why not get there before then! CHRIS CAREY ISOJOURN d watch it go like wildfire!! *helpful hint* The drained fruit juice makes a lovely beverage as it is Planet of the Arts Vol. 5 no. 1 Fall 1989 Oly Shen bao Hates Thx Finn but The ace oun tant Hears we py Yours alrogenl Ys eee TG NS atlorap ting ty (her symbole. Sa We vHer tscher’s Wovlol! tre Beca, COM n Steps, the Designny Wants » cae Be Te Primyaadery nr SAL Wiss » and Ye Phoveprapher in woot to ee | ea ‘ Photius Kexanne Jette y Coupe Scot ot Jgat Te PNR ogropher (eats yi le weryme ere 2 2uay oxplerin pian Cape And turing their nuindd yl tm Ye clindoun 6 note, What do you ean Wwe nowt 1) a Bele” Planet of the Arts Vol. 5no. 1 Fall 1989 peenee re. e d watch it go like wildfire!! *helpful hint* The drained frutt juice makes a lovely beverage as it is, Men Island and oa lesser extent, Moresby Island were y biter reminders of the tension between loggers anc Hue residents of these lands, Minor engine trouble gave kins ee Us a rare opportunity to limp into Sewel It, the Or pee le Bp i Phen sym igi oan or Wester Foret Pesca irene ula is Yue camp manager, made us very welcome.a truck at our “ii 015 Te Target audience) disposal, tools, equipment, food, hot showers, and uided tours around the lunar landscape that was once trees. This was home to some 500 people, now five maintain the place, huge generators going twenty four hours a day amounts to $2000 of diesel per week, ‘a Helicopter on charter to pop up to Sandspit for a drink, trucks, new one day, dumped as replacements, ‘come in monthly, and the huge bodyless stumps of hundreds of years growth dot the landscape. We moved on to immerse ourselves in the beauty as yet unravaged by man, through channels only deep ‘enough for the keel at the high of high tide, the depth sounder screaming at me that's i's impassable and the deer stare at us, probably laughing to themselves. We walked in forests with moss so thick and green we rolled init as kids on sand dunes. The sun spotlight- ing us in heavy mists, navigating when the person on the tiller can't see the person on the bowsprit. Por- Poises playing with the keel, and whales unconcern- ey passing. Putin, tke wind up toy bids, squawk, flap by. ‘Though we passed through other villages ‘once inhabited by the Haida the village of Ninstints on ‘Skungwai was the one most magical, the poles stand- ing to proud attention, looking out over the small bay, ‘and what stories they can’ tell are told by Wanagan, the caretaker of the island. We spent a lot of time in his spellbinding company, walking through the forests peaks buf yonteunto bee Sos eras orca 3 Rebudape tne ter Ech’ worl! the Decauntante fresh delicacies like sea urchins,venison, or salmon. ’ Desi ‘Slom bound in Rose Harbour we at, rank(plum epsitie Design wants % know ‘stone vodka?) in the cosy cottage of Goetz, a german, he Penta nr hU Wisvirg , and Yue pho agher printratend ra hniaeang iniis new found paradise, ferrying tourists around in his Zodiac, cooking meals from his bountiful garden, in aleout to dan toven the dover | Frawity. and offering accomodation to those that have none. We waited out the storm for three days and on the third night called up Wanagan on the VHF for a weather repor.. He suggested we lft soon, ao atfer the storm passed Hecate Straight would be a mess with no wind. Considering the conditions outside our cosy boat we thought we would be suicidal to leave at that moment, but we decided that a Haida would know better, and off we went to once again hit Hecate. On 215 t020 knot southeasterly we plowed st ‘through the crashing sea all through the night, only loosing the wind two or three miles from the mainland coast, iS ‘On the return trip to Vancouver a number of minor ? incidents struck just to keep us on our toes, like the ea backstay(that holds the mast up) snapped, not once, @ but three times in heavy winds. At Homby Island we y drifted out from a bay dragging the anchor behind us i ‘and somehow avoided hitting all the big power boats H that we had anchored in lee of, the night before. But é by this time in our journey we were in tune enough to ¢ handle these things as all part of a days work. h you are interested in travelling to Haida € preparation, or alternate ways to visit | would be happy to chat about that spectacular part of the world. Rumours that they wil be @hot number in afew ott The PARogropher (eats years for tourists. Maybe Queen Charote Cty wil pS at Lost! grep live up to its name. Sewell Inlet, now a logging camp, wide eotryoe Cae i 2uae oxplerthg tng te is thinking of opening up to fishing tours for Japanese Cape amd “or daanng Wh tei. winds yi life ne Why not get there before then! Wh : ges Srolevdoun 4 natute What do yon rear we hawt 19 brcle? CHRIS CAREY ISOJOURN